Finishing touches

Day 41. After spending the night on Mutton Island we wake up to the wind and rain. The snooze button gets hit a few times before we finally get up. Still a bit drowsy in our sleeping bags.

We are very grateful to Njord who sponsored us with a Marmot tent for the expedition. It's been great. So Frida is setting up her jet boil.. Which lead to a small blaze inside the tent.. Ahhhhhh.. More worried about the tent than anything. We did react pretty quickly. The jet boil was thrown out onto the wet grass and situation under control. Strangely this isn't the first fire reaction Frida and I have experienced together. The previous was at the storm gathering organised by Njord where my jumper set on fire.. So you can say we had our practise run.

There was a storm coming in so today was good if we managed to get to Doolin. There was wind from the side and a reasonable swell but not too much we couldn't paddle. Although this did mean we kept a safe distance from the Cliffs of Moher. Spectacular as they are in the bad weather we didn't appreciate them fully.

We made it to Doolin where the boats go out to the Aran island. And camping wasn't looking the best. so we went to the nearby campsite to see if we could charm them into letting us stay for free. Wasn't happening. So we managed to find a little sport right where the boats were leaving. Urban camping has its issues. Anyway we get into our sleeping bags and no one disturbed us. Until the scariest thing for me happened. I'm lying in my sleeping bag reading on my phone.. and a big spider starts to crawl over the screen. I jump a mile and start screaming.. Giving Frida a shock. Luckily the spider got the message and he quickly crawled out of the door.

Day 42. There was a depression passing over so quite a bit of rain and wind. Good option to wait on land and have a longer day tomorrow. So we head into Doolin to have a coffee and charge our phones. Quite a quaint little village Frida finds a ukulele she really wants to buy. But we have no cash and the question is if she can fit it in her kayak. So after a beer in the pub. She manages to get the pub to give her cash back. Welcome aboard new ukulele. Luckily it fitted well in the kayak.

Day 43. Doolin - Deer Island. Today the weather was perfect. Breeze in the back and little cloud cover. We were flying. Nice to have a down wind paddle and little surf along the way without it being too big. We get to Deer Island and there a loads of seals again it was awesome. We set up our tent for the last time for this trip and watch the seals all evening,

Day 44 Into Galway. The final touches to our trip. Just ten km to go. Galway is pretty flat and it was hard to see the entrance to the harbour. But finally with a bit of trial and error we get to the entrance. Quick and easy over to the RNLI building and we are on land.


Finished our adventure.

80 km from Galway

Day 34 - 36 we spent storm bound in Castlegregory. Where being quite close to Galway we aren't too stretched for time and can enjoy the days on land. The first day we hitch into Castlegregory and get picked up by a nice family. One seat in the car. Frida an I got to know each other a little better as I jump onto her lap. He he. But we got into the village and have a look around.

Day 35 we were were relaxing in the tent and we were approached by a man Don. He had been following our blog, Kayaker himself and wanted to know if we would like to join him and his wife Lisa on a road trip to Killarney so of course we were in the car before we knew it. Lovely company and then we were invited back for dinner. It was lovely not eating a meal out of a bag.

The following day. Day 36 weather was still looking rough. So lucky for us we get picked up by Don and Lisa and get fed lunch and a road trip again to Dingle, their son Darragh joins too. We were really looked after. Thanks guys for your entertainment and hospitality. Was great to meet you and get to know you.

Day 37 looks to be a good weather window to cross the Shannon estuary. All plans in our head. Options for Kilbaha kilkee and Ross Bay. Westerly winds. So not really helping much but not a head wind so for us that's great. Was a little bit more lumpy bumpy than we had thought. The clapotous coming off Kerry head were quite intimidating. But we managed just fine and ended up landing in Kilbaha and having an evening walk up to the light house. Sadly we got there 30minutes after it had shut. But it looked cool from the 1.5m stone wall around it.

Day 38 we wake up and are almost ready to pack out things in the boat. Rain is hammering down on the tent. Finding every excuse not to go on the water. Ready and dressed to go. We decided if we wanted pictures of the stack at loop head they wouldn't be very good. So we had best wait a day for the weather to improve. So we head to the pub for cooked breakfast.

Day 39 kilbaha to Kilkee.
We get on the water after an wet rest day. And paddle out in the direction of loop head. Conditions quite interesting but looking forward to a tail wind after loop head. Coming around the headland we were averaging over four knots. Finally tail winds. Tide in the back. A nice gentle paddle into Kilkee. Coming to the opening of the bay we could just see a line of crashing waves. Oh no. How do we get in. After some discussions we find a line in. I went first. Rock hopping with surf. To then find looking from the other side if we had paddle 100 or so meters more there was a huge opening no breakers. But it did look like it being on the back of the wave.

Day 40 Kilkee to Mutton Island.
Calm day on the water today. Enjoyed a nice run up to Mutton Island. Full of rabbits. We are getting pretty near our goal. Let's hope the next few days go smoothly.

Tent spots

As we get into Dingle on day 29 we are of course a bit tired after a long day paddling with low visibility. It's a headwind coming into the bay and we want to be close to the town. We pull up onto a small little island on the edge of the harbour perfect for camping but we would get cut off from the main land on high water. So we go and check out the marina. There is a lovely bit of grass behind a barrier right off the slip. So we carry out boats and decide to put up our tent after dark. A couple, friends of Jon come and say Hi and give us the key to the changing rooms. Lovely. After a night sleep we get woken up. Not too early thankfully. 'No camping here!' I try the story we are paddling around Ireland. And he left. Oh well.. We had already camped there now. 

So day 30 we pack down our tent, had breakfast in the cafe and head onto the water. We didn't seen the dolphin and after seeing how crazy the tourist boats were driving we got quickly from there.. Well not so quickly as we were paddling surprisingly into a head wind. After exploring the impressive cliffs coming out of Dingle we head to the blaskets. There is a well hidden slip way to the left of the beach.. Pretty steep. Our boats did try and escape us a few times whilst unpacking. There is a great ledge to put up the tent. We secure the kayaks and are set for the evening. Whilst eating our dinner there were a show of seals in the water popping their heads up. Frida also noticed there were many over at the beach. We decide to have a evening walk to notice there were loads on the beach. We dart down there to get as close as we could. The second largest seal colony in Ireland. It was amazing. A must if you are ever paddling here.

Day 31 we wake up to the little bugs flying around so we quickly pack up and get on the water. Finally a following sea and wind in the back. We get around to Bally David with good cruising speed.

Bit wet but we get there. We get our boats up and have a look for camp spots. We had been told to ask in the hostel if we could put our tent up in their garden. But we noticed they didn't have a garden. But we found a nice bit of grass around an old Lifeboat house so we asked if anyone knew the land owner. And word got around in the pub.. Someone had made a phone call.. We were allowed if we fed the donkey a packet of crisps. Joke or not we got the donkey a packet of crisps.

Day 32 heading around towards Brandon Bay. Tall cliffs and not many options for landing but we had read of a slip way just two hours from Bally David and a possible beach after another two hours. Getting around to the slip we were paddling against the tide so we decide to have a sunbath and wait for the tide to change. We met a lovely family on a rib who invited us to join them. After a few hours we get back on the water and make it round to Brandon Bay. Brandon Bay not being the easiest for camping either if you are trying to avoid the sand. Quite populated by the pier we head over to the small bridge where there are some farmers fields. Big signs 'no camping!' I did ask nicely and we were granted permission but we ended up camping next to the small river. With quite a gradient on the tent. Luckily we didn't end up in the river.

Day 33 we have a relaxing morning. I go to the pub and Frida goes for a hike. Then later we decide to paddle out of the bay to get a better start for our crossing to Loop head. Paddling up the river at high tide was great. But coming out on low tide meant a bit of a carry. Mmm.. Anyway we get on the water and head towards Straggnie Bay. Getting closer to our landing spot Frida mentions something about a boat.. I'm like where? To turn my head to find a boat meters behind me. Shit! I did paddle as 

quick as I could until I realised they had seen us. And to our surprise it was the rib we had met the day before. So when we landed at Straggnie Bay we were invited for a bbq. Nice! Thanks very much! And a few glasses of red wine.

So after the bbq and a few glasses of wine it's late and we have to put up our tent. Knowing we are going to wake at 0700 to get onto the water. We end up putting our tent up on the slip way not being able to peg it down but find a few heavy rocks for the doors. We jump into our tent to hold it down. After about an hour there comes a car who decided to open its windows and play very loudly Irish folk music.. Lovely.. Thanks for that.. Then a few hours after that the wind starts howling and our tent starts making a racket. No sleep for us. The alarm goes off and we decide today is not the day to cross to loop head. We move our tent and take a walk up the hill. And it was blowing. Yep we will stay on land. It's died down a bit now but looking to blow up again for the next few days so we could be here for a few more days. 

Taking a different turn.

Day 25. After being optimistic reading the weather forecast in Allihies, we set off in hope to reach Valentia Island. Things in the bay as always were looking calm and we head off. A bit undecisive of which route to take we made the decision to cross over to islands x where on the map looked to be a landing. It turned out although the wind had dropped a few m/s it was still holding us back and the paddle was long and hard. As we get to the islands there is no landing spots and already been sat in our boats for a few hours it would have been nice with lunch.. But we are force to press on to the headland. After a struggle already we start having the conversation is this worth it? Are we having fun? We don't want to dislike kayaking after this experience. So we decided to land our boats in Ballinskellings Bay and have a real think about our trip and what really is possible.

We get on land and have a silent rule where we don't discuss things on an empty tummy. So stoves come out food goes down and then comes out the diary and calculator. We came to the conclusion we would have to paddle an average of 45km a day to get around by the end of August and looking at the weather forecast for the coming week it wasn't looking like we were getting anywhere. So we came to a realistic conclusion if we were to still enjoy kayaking, stay friends and not burn ourselves out we would have to make some changes to our trip. We still have two and a bit weeks and we want to stay here in Ireland but perhaps enjoy ourselves and not bust the gut for something we most likely aren't going to do. So we made the decision to book our tickets home at the end of August when we go back to work and take a more relaxed approach to the rest of our trip continuing along the coast. Perhaps Galway will be a nice place to finish and then we can enjoy the other half at a later time.

It was very hard for us to change our trip from circumnavigation to not circumnavigating. The dream of going around. But sometimes if weather and time don't permit there isn't much we can do except accept. And make decisions accordingly. After realising that it isn't a fail and we will be back to enjoy the rest we started enjoy our adventure again.

The trip so far has definitely been a huge learning for us all. And we can really reflect on our experiences and make thing better and smoother next time. Which is a great feeling.

The weather not looking good day 26 and 27 we spend in Ballinskellings. We took a tour to the chocolate factory with chocolate tasting and Frida bought a chocolate sheep she wanted to take home to Norway with her. Bad weather means wind.. There was still sun. Sadly the sheep didn't survive the heat and Frida needed to quickly eat him up. We picked up another package of food so now we have enough for the rest of the trip.. And enjoyed of course a pint of Guinness in the pub.

Day 28 finally south westerly winds. We set off from Ballinskellings to then paddle for a few hours with the amazing view of Skelligs Island. Would have been an experience to land out there but we chose to use the good weather to continue on our route. We got through portmagee channel with wind and tide in the back was nice to have some boat speed for a change then landing on Beginish Island. 

We set up camp with the sheep. There is a little hut on top that looked like we could hike up. So we took on the challenge having landed quite early. Through ferns and long grass and yellow spikey things.. I give up half way while I wait for Frida to make the summit. Recommended Wellington boots if anyone is to take on the challenge.

Day 29. We wake up on Beginish Island wind taking the doors on our tent and a pool of water inside.. It was not motivating to get out of the sleeping bag. Raining. And I look out of the tent to see thick fog. Mm.. With a crossing ahead. We stretch out getting ourselves ready as much as we could to the find ourselves ready to go on the water. Dingle here we come. We have our bearing of about 10° and plan to hit the westerly bay and then hand rain into Dingle. We head out of the portmagee channel waves towering over us with a westerly breeze. Radio in position for any boat traffic. And we head off towards Dingle. Through the thick fog is quite tiring on the eyes and you really have to trust in your bearing. Losing sight of shore all around. About an hour in Frida mentions feeling a bit unwell and I'm not having the best of days. We were OK to continue. To then look around to see Frida throwing up her banana bread.. Oh dear.. Everything OK? Thought of escape going through my mine. We didn't have too many options. She kept paddling.. And then I think it was her breakfast coming up too. Oh dear. Lots of water and she carried on. Bless her. After an interesting crossing we start to see land and head towards Dingle. Just coming around the headland from the west a line of tourist boats start driving out of Dingle. And one crazy boat decided to drive straight for us. My paddle went up and the others slowed down and changed direction but one didn't seem to have a pilot. We had to paddle pretty quickly out of its course. He was swerving everywhere. But finally we made it safely into Dingle.

Head winds! We love them.

Now let's see.. Day 5 was the last time we had wind in the back.. Day 6 was calm but foggy and day 7 - 24 it has either been too strong winds to be on the water or strong winds in the face. Every morning we sit in our boats and remind ourselves we love headwinds.

Day 16 was the first day Frida and I were just two. We left Vibeke on the beach with all her things waiting for Jon to pick her up. It was a weird feeling but we wanted to continue and had agreed beforehand if anyone left the group it was ok to continue. So we waved goodbye and were on our way.. Into the head winds.

We managed to cross the bay and sit out for a few hours in hope for the winds to drop before heading around Galley head. Pushing against the winds and big clappotous waves we got around. The aim was rabbit Island but decided to get off the water before that and aimed at crossing the bay and into Owenachincha. On the way over a dolphin popped up right next to my kayak. I was petrified. He was jumping around. I could have reached him with my hand. Scary! Anyway we landed on the beach and greeted by a few locals. We got our tent up and moments later a family we had spoken too come by.. 'Delivery!' two bags of chips and a cup of tea each. Ahh how kind. Thanks. The weather wasn't looking good for the following day so we decided to sleep in and have a rest day. The tent really making some noise in the night.. Turned out to be a good choice. The next morning there came another delivery from the chip shop. Tea and biscuits for breakfast. Wow, so we went over to say thanks and stayed there the rest of the day charging our batteries and eating food. Weather wasn't looking much better but we were running out of cash and decided we would push on the following day.

Day 18.. Pushing along against the head winds. Think it was our shortest day in distance with just 14km but we were probably still out there for our average 6 hours of paddling. We did make it to rabbit Island for lunch which was great and pushed along to a small cove where we camped. After watching the rocks to my right not get anywhere for a while it was time to call it a day. We camped near a small farm where two dogs joined us for the evening.

Day 19. The winds were looking better.. Just a 7m/s headwind. We wake up at 0400 to catch the last of the tide around toe Head and onto Baltimore.. Bit of a break in Baltimore ready to then catch the ebb up to Crookhaven. Good day just 0.3km short of 50km.we were happy.

Day 20 the forecast was south westerly 14m/s.. Not what we wanted for going around Mizen Head. So we stayed weather bound in Crookhaven for day 20 and 21. The locals and regular holiday makers made us feel very welcome. A kind gentleman tried to support our charity but it's not so easy being in Norwegian. So he paid for our drinks and meals in the pub to support. Thanks for your generosity. Really appreciated. My mum and John also came to visit us on day, 21. They took us out to Mizen head signal station so we could see if the forecast was really doing what it said. And it was big out there. Waves crashing up high over the rocks and the winds blowing in. Good decision to stay on land.

Day 22 the winds had dropped from 14m/s to just 8m/s north westerly. Time to pack up and head around Mizen head. We were on the water at 0630 to catch the tide. Woke up a big otter sleeping in the water. He scared us half to death.. Being to quiet that time of morning. The winds were strong, waves and swell were pretty big too.. But we would have to get around at some point so today way the day. We head on. Help from the tide but against the wind. Our aim was dursey Island but after the tide dropped off we were going just over two knots into the wind and after 5hrs of paddling already
we decided to hit nearest land which was still a few hours away. Having woken up early there wasn't much movement in the bowels. Which meant for us both at some point during the morning there was a need for going to the toilet. Mm.. I was the first one to take a swim. Clipped my tow line onto my boat and indeed had a poo in the sea. Frida was a bit more reluctant and tried to hold it.. After many hours of pain in her belly and still hours from shore she gave in and took a dip. 38km into a Headwind was hard work. Our bodies very sore and blisters starting to brew. We made it to Pullen harbour.. Miles from anywhere it would be headwinds again the next day.

Day 23 again we are on the water for 0600 to catch the tides going through Dursey sound. Head winds were strong going west and the gusts were even stronger.. But we were going to get there. Digging deep for energy we pushed on. My mum being in the area the thought go through our minds. Shall we go home spend a few weeks paddling in Wales? Nope we are going around Ireland.. Headwinds or not.. It's not been the most motivating but we will push on at least until the end of August and then see where we are. I have to be back to start until on the 18th September so we are hoping the winds will drop for us to get around by then. It is taking a little longer than we expected. But not much we can do about the weather. We get around Dersey and into Allihies when we met my mum again. She treated us to dinner and beer. Lovely to see them and good with real food in our bellies.

Winds have picked up again today. Day 24. But it's looking better for the week to come. Yeah!!

- Ashley

Day 15 Garrylucas - Dunwoody Bay (training into practice)

After two days of rest at Garretstown we were ready to get on the water. Winds drop to around 5-6m/s. It's now or we will be waiting another few days. So we pack up and head to the beach. Waves are crashing into the beach but nothing we couldn't get past to get going.

With a bit of a scramble to get off the beach.. Vibeke filling her boat with water. Finally we are all out. With a few exposed rocks in the bay it wasn't a place we wanted to be.. So pushing on a little bit before making any adjustments to empty boats of water.

For me I seem to be feeling it more in the body after rest days and the shoulders were giving me some trouble.. Oh dear. After the not so pleasant experience of towing a few days before.. My shoulders couldn't have taken anything like that with the small nagging pains they were giving me.

Anyway we paddle on. Frida was dropping back a little bit. I kept checking my shoulder.. And her paddle was still moving so things must be OK. Mm.. A few minutes later.. I hear a shout and the paddle goes up. What's up? We group together to find her back hatch had disappeared. Mm? Where has that gone? Head winds pushing us back. Vibeke quickly clips onto our raft and keeps us in position. Trying to pump the water out of the hatch wasn't the easiest. Sore shoulders and waves continuing to crash in there filling it up again. Managed to empty it a bit and Frida pulls out a plastic bag and bungee cord from her vest ready for me to assemble. Not the easiest operation in the wind and waves.. But it would do until we make it to land just an hour away. Poor Frida she had the heaviest boat as it was. Now it was a tad heavier..

Having not the best start to the day at least it brought up a conversation about our communication and how important it is. Communicating before we get on the water and then again once we are on the water. Just to make sure everyone is happy and comfortable. And to take responsibility for ourselves and what our own bodies can do and then how that might affect the plan for the day. Making sure things are noticed earlier and keeping a check on each other. Luckily this time Frida wasn't too far behind before we noticed but for next time we would want it to be quicker.

After our long discussion on the beach we all agree we are ready again to head into the head wind around the headland. Maybe a two to three hour paddle before we get to any landings. Frida had emptied her hatch and luckily the spare hatch cover from Reed put to good use.

Vibeke's wrist was painful but still she was OK to continue. So we head around into the wind. Moderate breeze with some lovely swells. And again we get into the situation where we get slower and slower. Having learnt from last time we didn't want to tow any raft so Frida clips onto Vibeke and the paddle tandem to ease the pain for Vibeke. And they managed just fine. Unfortunately the nearest landing sport on the map did not look suitable so we had to dig deep and continue. Vibeke to then suggest we might need to do an emergency landing. I think she saw the steam coming out of my ears. Looking at the waves crashing over the rocks. 'we don't have many options!' This is our emergency landing. And we grit our teeth and got around to a safe beach landing.

Unfortunately we realised how dangerous it was for us to be out there with an injury and sadly Vibeke called it a day. It was amazing to have her with us for all those paddling days but for the safety of the team and Vibeke's wrist it was time for her to put the paddle down and end her trip. Luckily now she can give her wrist a good rest and work on preventing the injury for next time.

- Ashley